Hay Stacks via Fleetwith Pike

Sunday 23rd October 2011 and we were awake in the Eden Valley once more with clouds covering the Pennies.  It wasn't raining yet but you could see it was in the post, but the weather forecast had said it was going to be a fine(ish) day so the car was packed and we headed to the south east corner of Buttermere Water (which i'll refer it too as to distinguish it from the village) with the intention of setting off up Fleetwith Edge towards Haystacks. 

 

It didn't look good, the entire journey was slowed down by driving rain and travelling down Honnister Pass revealed peak after peak of cloud covered fells.  We caught our first glimpse of Buttermere and decided to drive into the the town of Bittermere to see if the rain would ease at least.  We did see the pub we would have a swift pint in at the end of which ever walk we did, the Fish Inn.  But we turned around and headed back towards Gatesgarth Farm to park up and commence our walk.  The rain still bouncing down we found a spot in the car park and thought we'd have to change our route.  Then, and by the grace of AW himself I swear, the rain miraculously stopped and there was a even a opening in the clouds with light blue sky peaking through.  So with massive smiles and eager anticipation to get up a mountain, we jumped out of the car and quickly put on our waterproofs and headed up Fleetwith Edge.  First to catch your eye is a brilliant white cross about hundred metres up.  It's a good twenty metres off the route and off course, it was my job to see why it was there.  A quick but slippery scoot across revealed it was of in the cause Cockermouth mountain rescue.

I rejoined the route and we pegged it up the well cut path.  We reached a grassy patch and both decided the waterproofs had to come off as even though over cast, it was still quite mild and we both were feeling the heat from the extra layer.  The ascent looked quite steep and rocky but we carried on as we both love a good scramble.  We weren't disappointed and were met with some hands on stuff, the rock wasn't very slippery and even though not technically a hard scramble, made you think about where you had keep your 'three points of contact' on route.  A good majority was good rock and we were smiling, being climbers as well as hikers.

At the top the wind started to dampen out the roar of the numerous waterfalls which populate the valley between Fleetwith and Haystacks.  A Cairn marks your goal and you are also met by excellent views of Buttermere Water and the surrounding Fells.

We headed south east across what can only be described as 'bog land' heading towards Hopper Quarry.  The route is littered with small off shoots were previous hikers have thought " where's the route? Sod it, I'm going this way" paths but we managed to stick to the map and stumbled upon the working quarry with all it's heavy plant.  Again there appeared to be quite a few routes to the path to Haystacks but we headed off to the Dismantled Tramway and turned right towards Little Round How.  You have to cross a bit of a stream which is ideal to clean all the peat off your boots picked up from the  bogs ready to tackle the rock on Haystacks.

We passed the tempting Little Round How, who was begging for us to climb it, and headed off towards Haystacks. The wind was getting up and the light was getting worse as we drifted passed Blackbeck Tarn. The breaking ripples on the tarn emulated the gusts coming from the direction of  Great Gable whose presence was with us since the summit off Fleetwith.  Another scramble greeted us before we clasped eyes on Innominate Tarn, secretly our goal!

We both stood and took in the view of the final resting place of Alfred Wainwright, poet and the inspiration of many a hiker before me.  To me, even in the blasting winds which were making our passage difficult, an eerie salvation to all whom pass.   Even though twenty years had passed I still watched my footing, making sure not to mix my once again peat saturated boots with any grey particles of AW's cremated remains. Although I did have chance to secretly smile at a passing hiker who slipped off a rock and managed to drop his glasses and Sat Nav into Alfred's beloved Tarn. Probably AW's way of saying that maps are better even from the grave?!

With all that in mind we took a few piccys and headed towards the summit of Haystacks.  It was a short push to the Cairn which two other hikers were clinging onto for dear life with the wind.  In between gusts we managed to take pics and admire a cloud covered High Crag, Pillar & The Gables peeking passed Kirk Fell.

I haven't referred to Kelly much before this, however, the decent has to have her name written on it.  Just for reference, at 17 years of age she fell from her attic and badly broke her ankle.  She now has the the equivalent scrap value of £100 in the form of pins and screws in her ankle. The climb down from Haystacks did not bode well with her metal ridden joint.  To start, from the top there's no clear way down off the top, the decent until the clear path is strewn with lose rocks. This does not bode well with dodgy ankles, and dodgy Knees come to think of that, which made the decent as always (never the ascent) a pain in the butt.  After numerous slips, turns and twists we reached the bottom leaving the air blue on Scarth Gap Pass and Kel in a lot of pain.  Peggy's bridge was crossed with glee and the we headed off to the car.  Kel left her boots on in fear of a swollen ankle which would over fill her approach shoes. 

We drove to the fish Inn (or is it hotel) and had a pint.  No dogs allowed at the Fish which makes it unusually unfriendly to many hikers but a nice atmosphere.  I loved the walk and so did Kel, but the descent played havoc with old injuries.